day 5…7.3
I got to FT with Claire this morning…which is always the highlight of the day! I’d read about Lobo Lookout up near the top of Wolf Creek Pass which was supposed to have a great view & a trail that’s part of the Continental Divide Trail. I found the road off the pass & drove up to the top. I was shocked at how much pine beetle kill is in this area. I was through here not that long ago & don’t remember all this devastation. It looks like Vail & the I-70 corridor which is loaded with thousands of acres of dead trees. You can see from the pic below the wonderful mountains in the background, but unfortunately you can also see thousands of dead trees. The actual trail was around the corner, so I drove to the parking area & ate some breakfast (peanut butter & a piece of fruit).
But there was this sign when I got to the trailhead:
And, this is what the view looked like:
And, this is what the trail looked like:
None of this was encouraging. So, I phoned Danny (I was at the top after all & near a ski resort so I had good reception) & told him I was headed over the pass towards Pagosa Springs. My next stop is a tiny hike to Treasure Falls just east of the town. There’s always a lot of people on it, but it’s a short hike to a spectacular falls.
I enjoyed the hike, but when I got back in the car I noticed the bite valve on my camelback was missing. I searched the car where I keep my pack but no luck. I also knew I’d need more fuel for my stove. So, my first stop at the east edge of town was a cool little gear shop where I found everything I needed. Next door was a place to eat, so without moving my car, I took care of errands & lunch. AND BOY IT WAS FANTASTIC FOOD! I sat outside along the river & ordered Pork Carnita Arepas & drank some amazing Chili beer from Borde Rio restaurant. It was fun watching the river tubers playing in the clear water while I ate. Did I mention this food was wonderful?
The town was big time packed with people & I inched my way along the highway through the town on my way to Durango. I was meeting Jill here in the next few days. We usually meet up in Crested Butte & stay there the whole time. But I was working at weaning myself away from my most beloved town…I’m truly addicted to summertime in Crested Butte. I know the 4th there is beyond whacko-crazy….but a part of me really still wanted to be there (but not camping…the nuts come out over the 4th & camping is my only option…) so on with my plan of “Touring Colorado". Anyway, I was concerned that by the time Jill got to where ever I was, we wouldn’t be able to find camping for both our cars, since it was so close to the holiday. I wanted to get to Durango early, find a great spot & be ready for when she arrived later in the week.
But first….I couldn’t just drive by Ska Brewery & not stop. And so I did & just as I arrived they were starting a tour. There were only 3 of us on the tour & believe it or not, they were from Lawrence. One had just recently moved to Durango & the other was just visiting. The building is really cool & environmentally great…so many breweries are & it’s wonderful! One of the owners is also a designer & his ‘design style’ is seen everywhere & it’s really cool looking. From the shipping containers used, to the bike racks & over into the outdoor space & bar…it was a really awesome place to hang out!
Ska’s theme is ‘bowling alley’ stuff…I think because this place used to be a bowling alley (I can’t remember for sure if that detail is correct or not). From their tap handles to their bar & tables (which are made from old bowling lanes) the theme is prevalent at the brewery.
The tour guide asked what kind of beer we wanted (we got a free one with the tour) & I opted for Pink Vapor Brew, a pink sour, which has beets in it. I’ve taken a lot of brew tours, but never before did I get special shoes to wear while touring. But, I have to say, these black & white Van’s were pretty cool!
I took a tour through town, then set off to find some free camping. The dispersed camping I’ve done near Durango before, is up near Molas Pass which I figured was too far out of town. Instead, I opted for a paid Forest Service campground just a few miles out of town & up a dirt road that was really beautiful! I made the decision to stay all week so we’d have a nice spot. I don’t like commercial campgrounds…everyone is crammed in next to each other; the big RV’s with their noisy smelly generators & noisy televisions next to the tents with no one having much space of their own. But NFS sites are usually really pretty, way cheaper than commercial sites (although usually only have a pit toilet & water) & offer more space in between campers. So, I was really treating myself to stay here for several days. I chose a spot, although it wasn’t the BEST spot, but I settled in for the night.
day 6…7.4 Happy 4th of July!
This would turn out to be the QUIETEST 4th I’ve ever had. And, this will be the shortest page on the website I’d bet. I made coffee, ate my peanut butter, read & waited for the 11am check out time to roll around when my neighbors in the BEST spot would be leaving. They missed the check out time by an hour, but once they were way down the road, I moved in. There was plenty of room to park both of cars once Jill arrived, room for my screen tent, hammock, a picnic table & a big fire ring! Luxurious camping for me & it was great! I’m such a tight-wad traveler & don’t really have the extra money to spend on camping for a week, but once I made the decision, I was loving it!
There was a super nice store about 10 miles from the campsite, so I ran for ice & some food opting to eat at camp more this week rather than out (of course, I was trying to save money since I was spending some on camp fees! Some people tell me they would love to do what I do, but in the real of it, I don’t think they’d like to live on the ‘cheap’ like I do. I pretty sure almost no one I know would like it!) I spent what is usually a loud & social holiday all alone reading in my wonderful hammock. Then I went on a trail (I’d been on it before while in Durango) hiking for awhile.
I repeated the earlier activity...reading in my hammock, then built my first campfire. The neighbors that had been across from me yesterday left two bundles of firewood & the camp host suggested I take it! Yay! So, that’s it. Definitely the most calm, quiet 4th for me. I really do enjoy big activities, LOVE LOVE LOVE fireworks, parades & all the fun stuff that goes with this holiday. And while this was different for me, I so love being in the mountains, in the forest & on the road.
day 7…7.5
I did some ‘housekeeping’ chores early in the morning then drove up Molas Pass to hike the 8 mile Molas Trail. I love this hike! The views are great & the trail drops all the way to the Animas River…which is big, powerful, clear & beautiful!
You can see the Durango-Silverton train once you near the bottom of the valley.
Thank goodness there is a huge bridge crossing the river…this would be one horrid river crossing!
I sat down near the water & ate some lunch. This trail is also part of the Colorado trail network & soon a thru hiker came by. He only had about 4 days left to the 580+ mile trail. He was super nice & we chatted for a few minutes…mostly he answered a few questions I had about some of his equipment. But as with most thru hikers, he was full of smiles, happy & friendly!
You can take this trail a little farther by walking down the train tracks to small back country station they have for backpackers, but I’d done that before & there wasn’t that much to see. Besides hiking on the tracks is a little un-nerving, since in places there’s not much room to jump off to let the train go by. Sure enough, while I standing near the tracks, I heard the train & it roared by!
Now is the ‘fun’ part of the hike. Four miles & all practically straight up hill! Chugga Chugga Huff & Puff just like the train as I climbed back up the trail. My normal routine is that as soon as I get to my car, I pull off my hikers & put on my Chacos. Wow, my trail runners had let in so much icky dirt! I hiked about 1/4 mile back down the trail to where it crosses a stream, sat down & washed all the trail dirt off my feet. Time for a pair of gaitors!
Once I was all clean (such a matter of opinion when camping/hiking out for days), I drove by Little Molas Lake & Andrews Lake.
Then on my way back to camp, I stopped at the Meadery. I didn’t look around too much, thinking this would be a good place to bring Jill while she acclimates. I did taste some of their mead though…yummy!
I drove back home to camp, read in the hammock, ate dinner, then built another fire & settled in for a wonderful evening!
day 8…7.6
Today’s trail was to a look out point called Gudy’s Rest, named after the woman who is responsible for the Colorado Trail. This trail is near the edge of town, so it’s popular with locals for their ‘daily workouts’. There were bikers & lots of hikers along the trail, but once spread out, I had my own space. The trail was mostly forested, but once at the top, the view was super nice!
Strange rock along the way….
On the way back down the trail, a nice woman asked me about my hiking poles, Her name was Trixie & I nick-named her —only in my head—Trixie the Talker. I know I talk alot…a whole lot, but I’ve never met anyone who can say so many words, so fast & in such short of time. She decided to turn around & hike down with me & the flurry of conversation…mostly from her, began. She was very tiny, a few years younger than me & being led by two giant unleashed dogs. It was a interesting mix of chaos hearing her life story, her medical, marital & family history all the while grabbing the dogs as bikers & other unleashed dogs headed up the trail. Her & her family live part time in Southern California & part time in Durango. It was an one of a kind hike going back, but I do treasure these encounters! I swear I had a smile on my face the whole way back…part from her interesting life & part in amazement that this tiny person had so much energy. Twists & turns the trail takes…not just the dirt path but also from interactions with others…keeps life interesting & entertaining! (And I was sure there is at least one other hiker out there that has felt the same way about an encounter with me…minus the dogs.)
I drove into Durango, stopping by a gear store on the edge of town to pick up something. I was meeting my friends, Tom & Kelly for dinner & until then I went by Steamworks Brewing to have a beer. It was good, but nothing special. Durango has 5 breweries, but I was on a budget, so other than Ska, this was the only one I’d visit on this trip.
Then it was time to meet up with Tom & Kelly. I met them last year as they camped next to me at Crested Butte. They are younger than me but are full time truck campers having been on the road for three years. I follow their travels on Instagram, Kelly & I message each other on FB & Tom & I email back & forth. We met for a beer at a local dive then headed across the street to a Nepalese restaurant for a fabulous meal & fantastic conversation! I really envy the life they’ve chosen & we love to talk trails, camping, & experiences! It was a wonderful evening & I’m so glad our paths crossed last year & that we stay connected. They will be in CB later this month, so I look forward to seeing them then.
I headed back to camp & took in the colorful brilliant sky!
